Tuxedo Smarts
Maya Dollarhide
A girl may dream about her future wedding dress for years, but you will rarely find a guy who aspires to the day he can wear a tuxedo. This lack of preparation can cause the most mild-mannered man to become panic stricken when faced with the many options available for men’s eveningwear. However, your future groom should fear not, a little education is all he’ll need to help him rent that perfect tux for the big day.
With all the gorgeous styles of tuxedos available today from top men’s designers like Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, your groom won’t want to limit himself. “These days, men want to really preen for their wedding,” says fashion designer Jackie Rogers, who has worked with the legendary Coco Chanel and whose designs have graced the frames of Hollywood’s leading men and women since the 1960s.
A brief history of the tuxedo
The tuxedo has seen many incarnations over the last hundred years. In the jazz era both millionaires and gangsters popularized the double-breasted tuxedo jacket with pleated shirt and pants. And the Hollywood films of the 1930s and ‘40s saw leading men dressed to the nines in both black and white tuxedos, each which looked strong on film.
Formalwear became more whimsical and colorful in the 1950s and ‘60s when a splash of colorful accessories dressed up the basic black tux, and the ‘Me’ generation of the 1970s changed the classic look to a more contemporary design with oversized bowties and wide lapels along with flared pants, which were popular in that decade. Top hats made a comeback, as did colorful vests, suspenders and t-shirts under tuxedo jackets in the 1980s. The 1990s heralded a nod back to European cut-away jackets and traditional morning coats. And today’s designers have created a bridge between the classic fit and a leaner, sleeker silhouette, like those created by Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren.
Hugo Boss offers a lean, long cut with slightly oversized shoulders, which elongates even the shortest torsos. Men can choose from single button notch to six button-notch jackets. The typical tuxedo averages about 31 inches in length but some can run as long as 49 inches, and although double breasted suits still exist, most men look better in a single breasted style. Tuxedo jackets are traditionally made from wool with silk or satin lapels, which usually comes in two types: the evening tailcoat and the shawl lapel similar to a smoking jacket.
What color does he choose?
While most people think tuxedo jackets should be black, “the most elegant tux is not black at all, but midnight blue,” says former GQ senior editor Steve Friedman in The Gentleman’s Guide to Life. Midnight blue actually looks more black than black in the nighttime. “Black can take on a sickly green tint under harsh indoor lights,” says Friedman. Most high-end designers carry midnight blue tuxedos, in addition to black and grey, which is a nice choice for a daytime wedding. If the venue is appropriate, a white jacket can look very sexy, a lá James Bond.
A crisp white shirt is a must for a tuxedo, says Rogers, who admits despite her preference for a classic tuxedo look, she has seen some great all-black outfits. “I think the Nehru [collared] shirt in black with a black tie looks really sharp,” she says.
Grooms can choose from a variety of ties – the bow, the silk Ascot, or a classic tie. It all depends on what a groom feels most comfortable wearing. Straight ties in colors like silver and light blue with a slight sheen are popular choices against the white shirt as an alternative to black.
The next step is a vest or cummerbund, which is used to cover the waistband of the tuxedo pants. A matching tie and cummerbund may feel a little like a senior prom outfit, so a groom does not have to feel inclined to match. A black cummerbund is often the safest choice.
Pants should be a perfect fit and skip the pleats. They are hard to carry off and can make the fittest man look frumpy. When selecting tuxedo pants, the groom should consider flat front with the signature tuxedo stripe in silk or satin down the side of the pant leg. Cuff links and studs in pearl, black onyx or burnished silver are nice options for accessories. In most tuxedo shops, he’ll find tuxedos from popular designers such as Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass.
Most grooms rent their tuxedos, which can cost upwards of $200 a day, but he might think of purchasing his tuxedo, which can be worn for a variety of occasions. Tuxedos can be bought in packages (with shirt, pants, jacket, tie and cummerbund) or he can buy individual pieces.
No matter how great the tuxedo or suit, it needs to look fabulous on the groom not on the hanger, so proper fit is essential. This is where the tailor becomes the groom’s best friend. Let’s start at the top: The jacket’s collar should lay flat on the back and sides of the neck without any gaps or bulges, and the shoulders should hug perfectly. The sleeves should be hemmed to the wrist bone allowing half an inch of the shirt to show, and the bottom hem of the jacket should smoothly cover the bum. Also be sure that the jacket buttons up comfortably. Next up, the shirt should fit well at the neck, shoulders, and waist. Be sure that the vest’s buttons line up with the front of the jacket and that the vest fits well across the chest. Lastly, trousers should be hemmed to just over the tops of the shoes. Comfortable fitting dress shoes should not be overlooked, especially since the groom will be expected to dance all night.
Encourage your groom to take the time to look through magazines and through tuxedo shops before making his selection. You’ll want to show off your gorgeous groom to everyone and he’ll appreciate your enthusiasm in making sure he shines, too.
Groom’s style checklist
Now that your groom has picked out the perfect suit, he shouldn’t just roll out of bed and jump into the shower the day of the wedding. Here’s a quick checklist for primping your man for your nuptials:
Three months before the wedding, your groom should reserve or go shopping for his and his groomsmen’s tuxedos.
A month before the big event, he should schedule a final fitting and make sure all alterations are done.
Two days before the wedding, his tuxedo should be picked up and he should double check that his accessories, such as his shoes, tie, cuff links, and dress socks, are all accounted for.
The day before the wedding, your groom should get a haircut and manicure. This is a great excuse to get him to go to a day spa with you.